Diary of a Designer Part 3

In-Depth Alterations

In case you missed Part 1 and 2 of this blog series, you can read it here and here.

After the first fitting with my client, I adjusted the pattern of her corset and made a second mock-up for her. I like to make sure the fit is absolutely perfect before cutting into the final fabric. And since she lives 2 hours from my studio and the corrections were so minor, she asked that I mail the mockup to her. I included special instructions with a sharpie pen for her to make any markings for adjustments. Fortunately, the fit was perfect and ready to be cut in the approved and final fabric.

Lightweight Layers

Diary of a Designer Part 3

This corset is a total of 6 layers, but I swear it feels like 2! For the facing fabrics or strength layers, I started with a 100% horsehair fabric to help add stability and body to the 3 other soft fabrics.

For the second layer, I found a beautiful, nude color Oscar De La Renta silk fabric that is lightweight, lush to the touch, and has a soft sheen.

Not Only For Looks, But For A Purpose

Diary of a Designer Part 3

The third layer is a black chiffon base that is pleated in many directions resulting in an abstract and almost leaf-like design all covered in a fine gold, shiny foil. This was sewn on top of the Oscar De La Renta silk fabric to give the chiffon additional structure and opacity.

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,,... Time and patience were key here....
—Stella

Detail Layer

Diary of a Designer Part 3

The fourth layer is this incredibly luxurious, novelty lace in navy. The swirls, or wave-like design, reminded me of the waves of the ocean, as this was part of the inspiration on my client’s vision board. One of the biggest challenges of this corset was pattern-matching the swirls on this navy blue lace. Time and patience were key here!!

For the inside lining, I used a silk duchesse satin in midnight navy that is as regal as silk fabric gets. Its understated sheen and medium weight make for an elegant, soft and comfortable lining that sits against the skin. I also lined this fabric with a 100% horsehair fabric for added structure.

Final Touches

Diary of a Designer Part 3

For a head-turning wow factor, and to make the back of the corset stand out just as much as the front, I hand-sewed navy and pale blue 3D floral and leaf embellished embroidery to the back. I special-ordered two pieces of this embroidery so that the stunning floral design would mirror itself on both sides. Rhinestones and studded blue pearls were added to the centers of the flowers and throughout the embroidery for an extra touch of beauty.