Redesigning the Wrought Corset

Many years ago, while studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology, we were tasked with researching and creating two corsets: one historical (dating from the 17th to 19th century) and one modern (from the 20th or 21st century). For my modern corset, I chose to design what is now known as my Wrought Corset. It was selected for display at the FIT Museum and has always held a special place in my heart. I’ve always known I would want to recreate it in different colors and fabrics, but until now, I hadn’t had the chance.

When I decided to create a line inspired by Lake Como, I saw it as the perfect opportunity to bring that vision to life. I dug up my pattern from years ago and made a mock-up to assess where adjustments were needed to fit my model’s measurements. Some of the tweaks I made included lowering the hip curve, scooping the neckline slightly, dropping the underarm, lengthening the sleeves, straightening the center back, and extending the hemline all around the circumference. With the knowledge I’ve gained over the years, my sewing techniques, attention to detail, and finishing have all become more refined since those early days.

With the deadline fast approaching, I made the necessary adjustments and dove straight into cutting my fabrics and sewing each panel together. I started with the sleeves, knowing they would be the most time-consuming. The lace I chose had a beautiful scalloped edge that I wanted to incorporate, so I carefully cut along the pattern of the scallop, made the sleeve, and then hand-sewed the edge back onto both hems. Once the sleeves were sewn and remeasured, I set them aside and moved on to the body of the corset.

About 75% of the way through, I decided to try it on myself to check the fit. Unfortunately, the armholes still felt too high. I couldn’t salvage it, so I adjusted my pattern once again and decided to make another mock-up. I essentially started over, learning the hard way that rushing the process doesn’t pay off. Meanwhile, I realized I wasn’t in love with the direction I was going in anyway, so I changed both the fabric and trim choices, which turned out to be the best decision I could have made. In the end, I was much happier with how the final design came together.

After all the adjustments and refinements were made, I was incredibly proud of how the final corset turned out. It’s not just a piece of clothing, but a reflection of how far my craft has come. The journey of redesigning it has only deepened my appreciation for the process, and I can’t wait to see how it continues to evolve. I already have ideas for other versions of this design, so stay tuned!